Your helmet is the single most important piece of kit you’ll buy – and in New Zealand, it’s also the only piece the law requires. But with helmets sold online from all over the world, it’s not always obvious whether the one you’re looking at is legal to wear here, or how to tell a good one from a bad one.
This guide covers what NZ law requires, how to read helmet certification labels, and what to look for when you buy.
This is a general guide, not legal advice. For the official word, check the current NZ Road Code for motorcyclists from NZTA Waka Kotahi.
What NZ law requires
In New Zealand, every motorcycle rider and pillion passenger must wear a helmet that is:
- Securely fastened – the chin strap done up properly every time
- Made to an approved safety standard
- Marked to show it meets that standard – usually a sticker or label on the shell or inside the helmet
If you’re stopped and your helmet doesn’t carry an approved standard mark, you can be fined – and you may have bigger problems with your insurer if you’re in a crash.
Which helmet standards are accepted in NZ?
The NZ Road Code lists the helmet standards that are accepted. These include:
- UN ECE Regulation 22 (ECE 22.05 or the newer ECE 22.06) – the European standard
- AS 1698 / AS/NZS 1698 – the Australian/New Zealand standard
- NZS 5430 – the older New Zealand standard
- BS 6658 – the older British standard
- JIS T 8133 – the Japanese Industrial Standard
- US FMVSS 218 (DOT) and Snell – US standards
The Road Code includes specific conditions for some of these, particularly the US standards, so if you’re buying a US-market helmet, check the current Road Code wording before you buy.
In practice: most helmets sold by reputable NZ retailers carry ECE 22.05 or ECE 22.06 certification, and that’s the simplest standard to look for.
ECE 22.05 vs ECE 22.06: what changed?
ECE 22.06 is the latest version of the European standard and replaced 22.05 for new helmets sold in Europe from 2024. Key differences:
- Rotational impact testing – tests how well the helmet protects against the twisting forces that cause serious brain injuries
- More impact points and speeds – helmets are hit in more places, at both lower and higher speeds
- Visor testing – visors face tougher tests, including against high-speed particles
- Accessory testing – helmets are tested with any manufacturer-approved accessories (like intercom mounts) fitted
ECE 22.05 helmets are still legal to wear in NZ, but if you’re buying new, a 22.06 helmet gives you the benefit of the tougher tests.
How to check a helmet’s certification
- Find the label. ECE helmets have a sewn-in label on the chin strap, starting with an “E” and a number in a circle (the number is the country that approved it), followed by a code beginning with “22” – for example “06” for 22.06.
- Check AS/NZS helmets for a certification sticker on the back of the shell.
- Be wary of novelty helmets. Thin “half-shell” or novelty helmets sold online often carry fake or no certification and offer almost no protection.
- Buy from reputable sellers. Counterfeit helmets do exist. If the price looks too good to be true, it probably is.
Beyond the legal minimum: independent ratings
A helmet that passes a standard has met a minimum. Some helmets do much better than others. Independent testing programmes can help you compare:
- SHARP (UK) – rates helmets from one to five stars based on impact testing.
- CRASH (Australia/NZ) – the Consumer Rating and Assessment of Safety Helmets programme, backed by Australian and NZ agencies including ACC, rates helmets for both protection and comfort.
Both are free to check online and worth a look before you buy.
Choosing the right helmet
Type
- Full-face: the best protection. Recommended for most riders.
- Modular (flip-up): convenient for touring and commuting. Check it’s certified for use both open and closed (marked “P/J” under ECE) if you plan to ride with the chin bar up.
- Open-face: cooler and more open, but offers no protection for your face and jaw.
- Adventure/dual-sport: peak, bigger visor opening and good ventilation – great for gravel and mixed riding.
Fit
Fit matters as much as the standard. A helmet that’s too loose can move or come off in a crash.
- Measure the circumference of your head just above your eyebrows and ears, and use the manufacturer’s sizing chart.
- A new helmet should feel snug all round, with firm (not painful) pressure on your cheeks.
- With the strap done up, you shouldn’t be able to roll the helmet off forwards or backwards.
- Wear it in the shop for 10–15 minutes. Pressure points that start hurting will only get worse on a long ride.
- Different brands suit different head shapes (round oval, intermediate oval, long oval). Try several.
When to replace your helmet
- After any crash or significant impact – even if it looks fine. The protective foam liner compresses on impact and doesn’t recover.
- If you drop it hard onto a hard surface from height, get it checked or replace it.
- Roughly every five years of regular use – most manufacturers recommend this, as materials degrade and the liner packs down.
- If the fit has become loose or the padding is worn out.
Never buy a second-hand helmet – you have no way of knowing if it’s been dropped or crashed.
The bottom line
In NZ, your helmet must be done up and carry an approved standard mark. Look for ECE 22.06 when you buy new, check CRASH or SHARP ratings, and spend time getting the fit right. Buy the best helmet you can afford – it’s the one bit of gear you really hope you’ll never need to test.
